It's All in the Technique (with some luck)
By Captain Peter E. Kane

Over the years I have had better than average catches of striped bass on the Hudson River and, although, I do believe that there is a degree of luck involved I am also a firm believer in developing a knowledge of what the fish are doing and how to go about catching them.
The only reason these striped bass are in the Hudson is to spawn, to carry on that biological process that is going to ensure a continuation of the species. We have been fortunate enough to see a dramatic increase in the stock each year increasing the anglers chances of having a successful day on the water. Even though water temperature is the critical factor that determines when the fish will spawn and whether or not the resulting eggs and larvae will survive it is not a prime determinant on the migration of the fish into the lower estuary - they will begin their trek northward around the beginning of March.
When the season opens north of the George Washington Bridge on March 16th there are a large number of fish present with the smaller males predominating at first. Catching these fish early is best accomplished by using blood or sand worms. Blood worms seem to work best but are more difficult to keep over more that a week even though refrigerated. Sand worms survive longer and some would suggest they are as good a bait as the bloods. Do not be stingy with the worms on your hook! Thread one good sized one on a 1/0 bait holder hook and a second one on the barb with most of it trailing off. A 36" fluorocarbon leader ranging from 15 - 20 lb. test is sufficient for these smaller fish and is still capable of landing a larger one if you are patient and have some basic fighting skills. Attach the leader to a 3-way swivel. The end of your line is attached to the swivel as well while a short length of 3 lb. test mono holds a 1 - 2 oz bank sinker to complete the three way. Weights will vary depending upon the current and you have to make adjustments to keep the terminal rig off, but near the bottom.
Drifting worms is O.K. but I prefer to anchor in about 10 - 20 feet of water out of the main channel. This allows the trailing worm that was put on the hook last to move in the current. You will find small perch will nibble your bait away and frequent checking and replenishing are necessary. Plant to go through a lot of worms!
As most fishermen know patience is not only a virtue, it is a necessity. Remain in your chosen spot for a few hours. These fish are moving and will tend to come to you. If you have decided to drift you will cover more water but you must work the bait differently. As your boat moves with the current the bait is static in the water relevant to its flow even though it is moving over the bottom. This can present two problems. If the weight remains on or near the bottom you run the risk of getting snagged. Keep the weight high enough off the bottom to reduce this risk. You should also slowly raise and lower the rod tip to move the trailing worm. I have caught many stripers on a slow retrieve as well and I owe it to the movement of the bait.
As the water warms and the season progresses, the larger fish start to show up. Although many of these are caught on worms changing bait and technique will increase your chances of hooking into some in excess of thirty pounds.
Herring are plentiful in the river as they are also preparing to spawn and make a great natural live bait or they can be cut into chunks. If using chunks, the same terminal rig is used as the one for worms with one adjustment. Anticipating larger fish will necessitate a heavier leader. Still using fluorocarbon I would suggest a 25 - 30 lb. test. If a live herring is used, or a live eel (one of my favorites) a different terminal rig is employed.
What you want to accomplish is presentation of a free-swimming bait. By using an egg sinker instead of the three way swivel set up the bait is able to swim freely by pulling the line through the egg with very little resistance. More importantly, if the bait is taken by a fish, the line resistance is minimal and can free spool prior to setting the hook.
Again, the hook is tied to a 25 - 30 lb. test fluorocarbon leader about 36 inches in length. The leader is tied to a small barrel swivel. Prior to tying the line to the swivel an egg sinker is placed on it and then a small plastic bead. The bead prevents the egg sinker from jamming on the swivel. Weight is dependent upon current with the intent to keep the line close to, if not on, the bottom. Eels will want to burrow in the soft silt of the river so it is important to occasionally gently lift the rod tip to prevent this.
There are many ways to hook live bait. Eels are best hooked through the upper lip and out the eye while herring through the upper lip or in the back just below the dorsal fin. Change bait often as you want it swimming in panic as a fish approaches. This not only keeps the fish interested it lets you know that there is action about to happen.
Perhaps some of these techniques and suggestions might help you increase your catch during the brief, but productive season on the Hudson River.

© 2001 Osprey Marine Ltd.